Fallos genéricos. Fallos más usuales del Renault 19.

Problemas y soluciones. (Extraídas de la web).

Relación de problemas expuestos y soluciones propuestas extraídas de la web. Se están traduciendo al Castellano.

Renault 19 problems starting and problems with ignition system

Problem: Car will crank until the battery is flat and if you either wait 5 mins or get a jump it starts as normal.

Solution: Crank angle sensor is dirty, or faulty.

 

Problem: Car cranks as usuall then a loud 'chuff' (back fire) (NOTE: backfire in its correct term means that it blows back out of the carb)

Solution: Usually water in the dizzy cap, but it could be water anywhere in the ignition circuit.

 

Problem: When the car is first started it sometimes doesn't fire on all cylinders.

Solution: If it is not a mechanical or fueling prob then it is most likely faulty HT leads, corroded iggy module wiper contacts, dirty crank angle sensor, faulty plugs or a damaged cap.

 

Problem: Hesitation on acceleration.

Solution: corroded iggy contacts, dirty crank angle sensor, arcing HT leads or dirty/duff spark plugs.

 

Problem: Hard to start when hot or even cuts out on a long journey, E7J (injection) engine.

Solution: The hot air feed on the E7J comes from the exhaust manifold and joins the trunking to the throttle body mounted air filter, if this is not fitted correctly the hot air vents straight to the ignition module which in turn makes it hot and overheats the module, when an electrical thing gets hot the resistance of it increases (thats why certain cars with starters near the exhaust are difficult to start) so either refit the hose properly or bin it altogether and enjoy the added performance.

 

Problem: The car gets to a certain speed, a lowish speed say 60mph or so and it refuses to pull any further.

Solution: If its not a mechanical/fuel problem then its usually a weak spark caused by faulty HT leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs or corroded ignition module contacts.

 

Problem: The car has been laid up for a while in a dampish place eg garage and the ignition components are all fine but there is no spark.

Solution: Well if the ignition circuit as in plugs, cap, rotor, crank angle sensor, iggy module, HT's are all fine then it may be a corroded crank trigger wheel. This is what the crank trigger bounces its signal off to obtain the correct timing etc, its bolted to the flywheel and can corrode meaning no go, needs to be replaced and requires gearbox removal.

 

Problem: The car runs fine but is a bit limp and starting can be problematic and the spark could not shock a worm to life.

Solution: Usually an earth fault, clean all the earths and the spark should increase in power, if the earths dont help the coil may be past it. Renault 19 problems with steering system

 

Problem: My steering makes a creaking noise which seems to be coming from the centre of the steering wheel and it can be felt too.

Solution: The matrix may have an air lock in it, which is common after a The racks anti-squeal bush is dry. Regrease the rack. The steering column bushes may be dry as well, pop the steering wheel off and spray wd-40 in the bush.

 

Problem: If I grab my steering wheel and wiggle it back and forth quickly it clicks.

Solution: If its not caused by worn ball joints then the rack is worn slightly. Nothing major as long as the steering doesn't wander all over the road. My energy now does this, when I never bothered to fix my rack gaiter crap got in and damaged my rack slightly, so if you have a bust gaiter sort it ASAP.

 

Problem: My car wanders on the road, not a pull it just goes left to right.

Solution: This could be a few things. It could be worn CV joints, wheel bearings, rack itself or worn ball joints.

 

Problem: My car pulls to the left constantly, not a drift a definate pull.

Solution: Assuming the brakes are ok (check out the brake fault finder) then the tracking is off, there is physical suspension damage, missaligned subframe, flat tyre or a wrong component has been fitted (a track rod end is a fav here).

 

Problem: (Manual Rack) my steering feels vague and it sometimes takes a moment for the car to turn instead of instantly like it should.

Solution: Most likely caused by worn ball joints. But loose rack mounting, worn UJ on the steering column, loose subframe, soft tyres or tyres wityh tractor profiles.

 

Problem: (Power assisted rack) same as above.

Solution: Same stuff as before but the rack is mounted to the subframe by rubber bushes, these wear and can allow the rack to move about freely. Or there is a problem within the rack itself. Renault 19 suspension problems

REAR

Problem: There is a loud squeak from the back of my car.

Solution: A common prob on torsion beam supension, it may be the beam squeaking itself in which case theres not much you can do except clear any stones off it. Or it may be the shockers, the lower mount should have plenty of copper grease or similar on it to prevent seizing and to allow free movement which will keep it quiet.

 

Problem: When go round sharp corners or bumps I hear what can only be described as a farting noise from my boot.

Solution: Either the shocks are dead or they have not been primed before they were fitted (primed means operated by hand through their full stroke a few times).

 

Problem: Over bumps the rear seems to 'step' out on me.

Solution: The shocks are dead change them.

 

Problem: Over bumps especially over a cattle grid or similar there is a lot of rattling/banging from the back.

Solution: The shocks may be dead or loose. Or the rear anti roll bar is loose or even snapped.

 

Problem: Under heavy braking the back gets a little skippy.

Solution: The shocks are dead or the car has been lowered wrongly ie without shocks to match the lowering.

FRONT

Problem: The nose dives excessively under braking and under really hard braking the bumper actually touches the road.

Solution: The front dampers are dead and maybe the springs have snapped or lost their temper.

 

Problem: The car feels flighty when cornering hard.

Solution: This can happen if the strut brace has been left off. Or the tyres may be to soft. Or the lower wishbone bushes have had it.

 

Problem: The car leans a lot in turns.

Solution: The dampers are dead. The front anti-roll bar is missing or its bushes have worn.

 

Problem: Rattling over bumps like a cattle grid.

Solution: The dampers are dead. Or the anti roll bar bushes are worn.

 

Problem: The car leans to one side.

Solution: The road spring is either broken or has lost its temper.

 

Problem: The car pulls to one side.

Solution: The tracking may be out. Road spring broken (the car can still look level with a snapped spring) or lost its temper. Binding brakes. Or a bent wishbone (kerbing can cause this). Bent chassis. Misaligned subframe (remember the mondeo wandering prob?)

 

Problem: The car wanders where it feels like going.

Solution: The track rod ends may be worn. The lower balljoint may be worn. The wheel bearings may be really worn.

 

Problem: The car corners then seems to stick then a cluck is heard and it leans more and over bumps it sounds like a dicky torsion beam.

Solution: A damper may be partially seized or the piston is bent. Renault 19 transmission problems

 

Problem: Wont go into first gear easily when cold and generally notchy change.Solution: Change the gear oil ( every 30K for long gearbox life.) Problem: The oil has been changed and it still feels difficult to put into any gear.

Solution: The gearstick control rod is out of alignment, or it has been damaged or badly adjusted.

 

Problem: When in gear the stick has lots of free play.

Solution: The gearstick bushes and control rod bushes are worn, you can get the link rods bushes seperately but need to buy the whole stick or use a bit of superglue.

 

Problem: A slight clicking when accelerating in a straight line getting louder over time, or when wheelspinning.

Solution: Worn inner left hand CV joint, its not a good design and the needle bearings wear away resulting in the noise, the joint will need to be changed (I have a peugeot inner CV joint in mine at the mo, same design).

 

Problem: Drone at certain speeds no matter which gear.

Solution: Its either the cv joints, wheel bearing or faulty engine and gearbox mounts.

 

Problem: The gear stick rocks back and forth when the engine is revved, or taking up drive.

Solution: Faulty engine mounts, usually the front right one goes, its easy to change, as it has loads of room on the energy.

 

Problem: Knocking on full lock, or when wheelspinning.

Solution: Dodgy outer CV joints, you may get away with regreasing the joint if you are quick.

 

Problem: Revs rise faster than they should for the road speed.

Solution: Dodgy clutch alignment, worn clutch plate or faulty self adjuster.

 

Problem: Judder when taking up drive. Solution: Clutch plate worn, warped or contaminated linings. Problem: Clutch is more like an on-off switch.

Solution: Faulty self adjuster or clutch ending its usefull life or a contaminated clutch plate. Renault 19 brake problems

 

Problem: When going round tight corners there is a rubbing/ticking/scraping noise from the rear.

Solution: If its not a wheel bearing its most likely rust on the drum coming into contact with the backplate when the car is cornering (the drum is meant to move slightly under load), so live with it (not advisable as it slows the car) or get it off and clear the rust and be surprised at how much freer the car feels.

 

Problem: My brake pad light is always on although I have just changed the pads.

Solution: You may have put the wire in front of the pad and the disc has cut through it thus completeing the circuit. Or the wire has broken off and is touching the chassis somewhere.

 

Problem: My brake pad sensor wire has snapped.

Solution: Be thankfull its a pain in the arse and the pads cost more with the metal block in them. Problem: When the pedal is pressed a hissing is heard.

Solution: The foam filter in the master cylinder needs renewed, its at the back of the pedal under the rubber gaiter.

 

Problem: When the pedal is pressed it feels 'wooden' and usually has a funny scraping noise.

Solution: The pads and/or shoes are glazed, either replace them or sort the prob then brake heavily to de-glaze them.

 

Problem: When the pedal is pressed the rear makes a scraping noise which usually goes away when the shoes heat up.

Solution: The pads may be glazed/contaminated with brake fluid or the drum is slightly out of round, not a major prob

 

Problem: The rears lock up to easily.

Solution: either the self adjuster is faulty or the pad is covered in brake fluid which makes it snatch the drum.

 

Problem: The handbrake feels spongey

Solution: The cable is stretched or the rear pads are dodgy.

 

Problem: The car pulls/drifts to one side.

Solution: If its a pull then its the front brakes, it may be seized sliders or caliper. if its a drift then its the rears, which can be down to a sticking handbrake cable or badly adjusted shoes.

 

Problem: When braking going backwards after stopping you hear a clunk.

Solution: This is caused by pads slightly to small moving as the brake is re-applied, nothing to worry about really.

 

Problem: Brakes are less effective after braking a few times (fade)

Solution: The brake fluid is past it, as it ages it absorbs water lowering the boiling point turning the fluid to vapour which is compressible, another sign is dark brake fluid it should be honey coloured.

 

Problem: The brake pedal travels to the floor and doesn't produce much braking force, or the pedal only works if you pump it a few times.

Solution: Common renault fault, the master cylinder is defective, it can be re sealed but its often cheaper and safer to get a new unit.

 

Problem: Brake pedal has become harder to push to get the required braking force, the car may not be running as well.

Solution: The servo vacuum feed has pershed, missing or split, this comes from the inlet manifold to the servo.

 

Problem: Whenever the pedal is pushed the car runs badly and smoke appears from the tailpipe (usually grey in colour).

Solution: Dodgy master cylinder, allowing brake fluid into the vacuum hose which burns in the engine. Renault 19 cooling system problems

 

Problem: Heater does not work.

Solution: The matrix may have an air lock in it, which is common after a coolant change. Or the flap may not work, when you turn the heater knob to hot you should hear a faint thump from the centre console, the feel through the control is not enough as the cable feels the same whether the flap is attached or not. You can reach into the foot vents and move the flap by hand to check the heater knob should turn.

 

Problem: When the heaters on I am sure I can smell coolant but it goes away once the heat is on cold.

Solution: Leaky heater matrix, basically the matrix is a radiator and when the flap is set to hot air passes through it gets heated up then comes out into the cabin causing the smell when its at cold the matrix is blocked off from the air so it no longer smells.

 

Problem: Coolant is ending up in the footwells.

Solution: Change the matrix its bust good and proper.

 

Problem: My car never heats up to the right temp.

Solution: Either the thermostat is missing or it has failed in the open position. Change it/fit one as the car running cool will increase engine wear.

 

Problem: My car gets hotter than a nuclear reactor.

Solution: The rad may be blocked, low system pressure, the thermostat may have failed in the closed position, the fan doesn't work, the pump has failed, there is an airlock in the system, exhaust may have cracked allowing gases to heat up a cooling pipe (a cracked manifold pumps hot air straight onto the pump and metal pipe) or the head gasket (HG) may have gone.

 

Problem: The gauge says the car is hotter/cooler than it really is.

Solution: The sender may be dead, covered in corrosion, or simply a bad connection or wire.

 

Problem: My car makes a screeching sound from under the cambelt cover.

Solution: If the belts are tight and the tensioner is ok then its the water pump, the bearings have gone and you may notice a slight dribble of coolant from under the pump.

 

Problem: Whenever I stop the car usually after a long run I hear a hissing sound from the header tank.

Solution: This is normal but it should only be for a few minutes after switch off, the cap is venting pressure out.

 

Problem: When I squeeze a coolant hose i hear a hissing from the header tank much like when it vents after switch off.

Solution: The vacuum spring in the cap is stuck in the open position. The cap has 2 springs a large one (pressure relief) and a small one (vacuum), when you switch off the pressure in the system pushes the large spring so it opens letting air/excess coolant out and when it cools the small spring lets some air back in, remember the coolant expands when hot and contracts when cold. When the vacuum spring opens to let air in some coolant stuck in the cap may dribble back in as well this will make the small spring sticky hence keeping it in the open position. Take the cap apart by popping the brown/blue top off with a screwdriver and then clean the springs and other parts with a toothbrush and clean water.

 

Problem: More a query, will fitting a higher pressure cap enhance the cooling system?

Solution: Yes it will, increasing the pressure in the system raises the boiling point of the coolant it also forces the coolant to completely fill out the water channels enhancing the cooling effect of the radiator. But if the pressure is too high it may burst hoses or strain the pump, but this would really take a lot of pressure.

 

Problem: So do I buy a higher pressure cap, mod my existing one or even just fit a oil filler cap?

Solution: You can if you want fit a higher rated cap and you will not experience any probs. To mod your existing one is easy, just get the big spring and stretch it out and this will increase the pressure of when it opens, but you have no real way of knowing how much more pressure it takes, but I have done this mod to my own caps. Fitting and oil cap will increase the pressure a lot, it wont vent or anything and would be a bad idea as it may make hoses burst and stuff.

 

Problem: My coolants brown.

Solution: Common prob, this is rust which is caused by infrequent coolant changes, this also lowers the cooling systems efficiency.

 

Problem: My coolant disappears and it needs to be topped up constantly.

Solution: The HG may have gone but usually results in the exhaust pumping out lots of steam and even oil in the water and water in the oil. The head or block may be cracked internally. You may have a leak somewhere in the system. Or you have an airlock that is either sorting itself or forcing coolant out the cap.

 

Problem: The coolant level rises.

Solution: When the engine is hot the level may raise by a few mm's. If it raises a lot then it may be a defective HG or an air lock.